Heroes’ Square (Hősök tere) at dusk, at night, and in daylight. One of the most important sites in Budapest, it commemorates the seven tribes who founded the city in addition to other Hungarian heroes. It is also the location of our second picnic dinner. At dusk, it was quiet; the tourists were at dinner, the traffic had calmed to a seemingly distant hum, and the monument towered all around us as we sat on the still-warm tiles. Our picnic spread out between us, we laid on our backs and watched the warmth fade into night; the night was accompanied by young people in stretch limos and beer tours, loudly interrupting our repose. We returned in the morning to visit the art museums, finding the square still different. It was bustling with tourists, soaking up the sun along with the glistening statues.